Alright, let’s get this straight – if you’re here because your outdoor spa jets are spitting weak water, making weird gurgling sounds, or just plain old busted, you’re in the right spot. I’m part of the team that sells these spas, so we fix our own units all the time (and help our customers do it too, when they don’t wanna pay for a tech to come out). Replacing jets isn’t rocket science, but skip a step and you’ll be leaking water faster than a kid with a sippy cup. I’ve replaced like 20 of these in the last year alone, so trust the guy who’s actually seen a mess from skipping steps. Outdoor Spa
First off, let’s talk about why jets go bad. I’ve had customers say “mine just died!” but no – it’s almost always one of three things. Either the water’s got calcium buildup (from hard tap water, duh), the jet itself cracked from sitting out in the sun too long (UV rays are jets’ worst enemy), or the screw that holds it in place got stripped from someone yanking too hard to clean it last time. Oh, and sometimes the internal nozzle clogs so bad, even if the outer part looks fine, you get no pressure. That’s important to note – a lot of folks think replacing the whole jet, not just the nozzle, is overkill, but we’ve found with our spas that matching the exact jet part from our stock avoids weird pressure issues, so I always recommend replacing the full jet, not just the insert.
Now, what do you actually need? Let’s keep it simple, no fancy tools. A Phillips-head screwdriver (the one with a grip, not the flimsy one that bends – I learned that the hard way), a pair of channel locks (just to loosen the jet if it’s stuck), a new jet (make sure it’s the right size for your spa – our team can tell you which one you need if you shoot us a message later, no need to dig through your old manual), some Teflon tape (the thin stuff, not the thick plumber’s goop – Teflon is way easier here), and maybe a rag to catch water that spills out when you pull the old jet. Pro tip: don’t skip the Teflon tape. I once forgot it on a customer’s jet, and they had a tiny leak that turned into a big puddle in their yard by morning. Embarrassing for both of us.
Okay, step-by-step, let’s break it down. First, you gotta shut off the spa and drain a little water. Not all of it – just enough so the jets are below the water line, but you don’t have water pouring out when you pull the old part. Our spas usually have a drain valve at the bottom, so just open that for like 5 minutes, until the water’s an inch or two below the bad jet. If you don’t do this, when you yank the jet out, water comes shooting out like a geyser, and you’ll be mopping the deck for an hour. I did that on my own spa when I first got it – never again.
Next, find the jet you need to replace. The jets are all on the spa’s inner shell, right? Usually, they’re in the seats or along the sides. Look for a tiny Phillips screw on the face of the jet – that’s what holds it in. If the screw’s stripped, don’t panic. I keep a little screw extractor tool in my truck for this, but if you don’t have one, use channel locks to grip the jet’s outer ring and turn it counterclockwise. Wait, no – wait, first, some jets twist counterclockwise to pull out, others have the screw holding them, so make sure you check which kind you have. Our spas’ jets are the twist-in kind, mostly, with a tiny set screw, so that’s what I’m gonna focus on here.
So, take your Phillips screwdriver, loosen that set screw all the way. Don’t yank the jet yet – wiggle it a little first. If it’s stuck (thanks to that calcium buildup I mentioned), gently twist it back and forth a few times. Never pull straight hard – you’ll crack the shell. If it’s still stuck, use the channel locks, wrap a rag around the jet so you don’t scratch the spa’s shell, and twist counterclockwise. Once it’s loose, pull it straight out. Be ready with that rag, because a little leftover water will come out.
Now, prep the new jet. Take the Teflon tape, wrap it around the threads of the jet’s base, like 3 or 4 times. Don’t wrap it too tight, or it’ll bunch up and make it hard to twist the jet in. Wipe the hole in the spa’s shell where the old jet was with a dry rag, just to get rid of any calcium or gunk. That’ll help the new jet sit tight.
Now, install the new jet. Push it straight into the hole, twist it clockwise until it’s snug. Don’t crank it with the channel locks – hand-tight is fine, then use the Phillips screwdriver to tighten that set screw. Not too tight, though – if you overdo it, you’ll crack the jet’s face, and then you gotta replace the whole thing again. I see that mistake all the time. The set screw’s job is just to hold the jet from spinning when the water’s on, not to clamp it down like a vice.
Wait, hold up – quick check: before you turn the spa back on, make sure the jet is aligned right. If it’s in a seat, you want the water spray pointing towards where your back would be, right? Don’t just jam it in any old way – twist it gently until it’s pointing where it should, then tighten the set screw. That’s a big one. I had a customer who put a jet in pointing straight at their forehead, and they were not happy. So align first, tighten second.
Now, turn the spa’s water on slowly, let it fill back up, then test the jets. Crank the pump, check for leaks around the new jet. If there’s a tiny leak, don’t panic – just tighten the set screw a tiny bit, or add one more wrap of Teflon tape. If there’s a big leak, you didn’t twist the jet in enough, or the Teflon tape wasn’t wrapped right. Take it back out, fix that, try again.
A few pro tips from our team, because we’ve seen every dumb mistake. First, if you’re replacing multiple jets, mark which one is which (like with a piece of tape) so you don’t mix them up. Some jets have different spray patterns – one’s for massaging your shoulders, one’s for your legs, so putting the wrong one in the wrong spot will make your spa way less fun. Second, clean the jets at least once every 3 months, using a mild cleaner (not bleach, that’ll eat the plastic) to prevent calcium buildup. Third, if your jets are older than 5 years, it might be worth replacing them all at once – they wear out at the same rate, so you won’t have to do this again next year. Trust me, our customers who do this say it’s way less hassle than replacing one every 6 months.
Oh, and one last thing: if you’re not sure which jet you need, or you run into a problem mid-install (like the hole’s bigger than the new jet, or a stripped screw), just reach out to us. We sell outdoor spas, so we have all the parts, and our team can walk you through it over the phone, no big callout fee. We’re not some big corporate company that makes you wait 2 hours on hold – we’re the guys who sell the spas and take care of our own customers, so if you need help, hit us up. We can also send you the exact jets you need, no shipping hassle.
Replacing spa jets isn’t hard, but it’s gotta be done right to avoid leaks and bad pressure. Skip the fancy tech, follow these steps, and your spa will be spitting water like new in no time.
If you’ve got more questions, or you need parts for your spa, get in touch with our team to talk through your needs and get everything sorted for your outdoor spa.
7-8 Person Outdoor Spa References:
- Outdoor Spa Maintenance Guide, National Spa and Pool Institute, 2022
- DIY Spa Repair Tips, Spa Parts Direct, 2023
- UV Resistance in Spa Jets, Journal of Recreational Water Science, 2021
SpaRelax Co., Ltd.
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